The Panther – the symbol of the Cartier house

Each brand has a story that is often an invitation to a vanished past. Over time, it becomes part of the company’s DNA, often associated with a representative symbol that remains the house’s signature forever. A truly wild animal, the panther is more than a symbol for Cartier. A timeless emblem, a representation of power and seduction, it never ceases to awaken fantasies: “a ferocious animal, but elegant at the same time, restrained, yet always ready to attack.”

Sinuous, silent, supple, and graceful, but also imperious, wild and cruel, the panther provokes admiration and fear at the same time. Its erotic and exotic nature has inspired many painters and sculptors throughout human history under a subtle blend of power and gentleness, sensuality and cruelty, femininity and animal nature.

Records in the Cartier archives prove that the panther was a recorded presence over the past century. Following the iconography of over a hundred years, each decade has recorded various interpretations of the panther in jewelry with diamonds and precious materials, thus becoming an essential element in the artistic landscape of the legendary house.

Beyond fashion, ornament or even a sign of status, the panther has become a true Cartier cultural symbol. The first evocation of the creature in Cartier’s repertoire appears in the Paris archives of 1914, involving an illustration in black diamonds that belonged to the talented Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968). With this stylized teaching, Jacqueau, a pioneer of Art Deco jewelry, anticipated and most likely helped create the monochrome patterns that characterized 1920s jewelry.

The panther pattern in onyx and diamonds, originally called “pavage peau de panthère” first appeared in 1917 and continued to be a Cartier symbol in later years. This exotic creature first took the form of a watch in 1914, then became a pendant watch in 1915. The first platinum bracelets, in combination with diamonds and onyx, were created only in 1922.

In 1917, a representation of the panther was carved entirely of black onyx on a cosmetic kit that would have a special significance. It was created especially for Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), a close friend of Louis Cartier who would play the most important role in the development of the symbol, orienting contemporary femininity in animal-themed jewelry. In a short time, Toussaint would respond to the nickname “Panthère”, due to her mental agility, but also her fierce determination. Moreover, her passion for the ferocious animal decorated her entire home in animal-themed accessories. Controversy began to arise as Cartier was enchanted by the blue-eyed woman since their first meeting in 1914. Despite speculation, Toussaint and Cartier were friends and partners for years to come. He divorced his first wife Andrée, a member of the Worth family, and soon married Countess Almássy, of Hungarian descent.

Cartier would spend more and more time in Hungary transferring much of his responsibilities to a woman whose good taste and refinement led to an important decision, naming her Creative Director in 1933.

Jeanne Toussaint understood how to transfer femininity in all its aspects into timeless jewelry, ensuring a dose of independence and individuality in each model. Her courage and creativity turned the panther into an iconic symbol recognized worldwide as the Cartier emblem. With unparalleled creative force, Toussaint built a visual vocabulary of the brand, modeling aesthetic codes through stunning contrasts of color and texture and fighting for perfection and innovation in every aspect of manufacturing, as learned by Louis Cartier himself.